We knew Parma was the mecca in northern Italy for great food and hospitality, but our walking tour with Michelle was next level. Her knowledge of the culinary traditions of the area, the things that distinguish the actual, traditionally-produced products from imitations, and the history of the region provided a perfect morning of eating, drinking, and conversation.
We started the tour at Da Pepen, a bustling institution in Parma. We had the carciofa--a super rich, creamy panino stuffed with an artichoke/Parmagiano Reggiano/ricotta mixture that was so flavorful I ate the whole wedge! (We've done food tours before, so I try to pace myself early on, but this was too good!)
Our next stop was La Cucina del Maestro, themed to highlight the influence of Giuseppe Verdi on Parma and vice versa--the chargers were vinyl LPs! We had a lovely charceuterie board, anolini in sugo and broth, delightful puffy bread, and a selection of wines, red and dessert. Our favorite was nocino, a black walnut liqueur, that surprised us because we don't like black walnuts at all. We purchased a bottle next door to take home.
We received an education about cured meats and balsamic vinegars at Antica Salumeria Alimentaria Rastelli. The staff were obviously proud of their products and shared different types of meats with a wonderful, light sparkling wine. We how to identify authentic traditional regional products with the gold and red seal and the designation "DOP." The strict enforcement of the standards really do make a huge difference.
We thought our last stop was Sapori di Parma, a lovely bar trattoria. They indulged us Americans with a delicious cup of cappuccino in the afternoon and served three luscious sweet treats--crumbles, custard with candied violet, and Torta Duchessa (Duchess Cake). This stop was an homage to Maria Luigia, the second wife of Napoleon, who is much beloved in Parma, where you'll find violets--her favorite flower--referenced everywhere.
Our last stop was an artisinal gelateria on the piazza--I didn't record the name--maybe I was too stuffed to process! Their selection was vast and some very inventive flavors alongside the traditionals.
Michelle did a fabulous job of introducing us to Parma, the Emilia-Romagna region, the traditional cuisine of the area, and the history of this great city. We were totally charmed, full of wonderful food and drink, and ready for a nap.